Written by Alexander Akande
It seems we live in a world where artistic
validation either comes in the form of insanity (lady gaga-esque style design
and "art"), or in the form of some piece of paper - otherwise known
as a "degree" - acquired after spending a few years stumbling
through art/design/fashion school. Separately, both these factors are enough to
cause a certain level of annoyance, and disgust. Together however, they combine
to form a force strong enough to break the will and dash the hopes of all self
taught and practical aspiring artists/designers. Getting noticed as a designer
without a degree nowadays is about as realistic as getting mauled by flying
pigs, then robbed by one eyed leprechauns on a flying carpet (no offense to
leprechauns or inhabitants of countries where flying carpets are the principal
means of transportation). In less flamboyant words, one would have to be extremely
lucky as it seems the odds are stacked heavily against anyone without a degree.
Sarcasm and poetic license aside, the ease with which millions of untalented individuals, inspired by the bright lights and fame ascribed to designers/artists in the media and through shows like "Project Runway", can apply to university and get a degree is quite infuriating and detrimental to the industry. A lot of these kids dive into university courses in design, with dreams of being the next big thing. A lot of them have realistic interests, but few are motivated by little beyond fame. Fewer still are aware of the various non-technical skills required to succeed as a designer. I do not mean to say universities are useless as a medium, far from it. What I feel however is that the general acceptance of university degrees as a measure of talent and ability in all things artistic is incredibly one-sided, blind and elitist, creating a closed society only accessible to those granted access (through a degree at an elite school).
Some will be quick to suggest that degrees are indeed necessary as a standard of measurement in the industry, which I fully agree with. However, should the acceptance of such standards come at the expense of talented, self taught individuals who were unable or chose not to attend fashion/design schools? The answer is an emphatic NO, said with blaring trumpets and a full circus parade (elephants, fireworks and acrobatic monkeys included). This however is the case, with talented young individuals being overlooked simply because they lack the industry accepted qualification aka a degree in fashion/design/art. It seems the fashion world has been quick to relegate to history, the fact that most of its famous designers did not graduate from any fashion/design schools. The assurance of standards provided by this accepted measurement of talent is exactly what is turning the design world stale. The world of design needs the raw talent and unconfined imagination of the self taught minority. Except for a few, most design schools strip students of individual styles, imposing a collective identity and method of "doing things". Thus in order to stand out, many turn to the outrageous and downright ridiculous, with design shows looking increasingly like fantasy circus acts in dreamlands born of near toxic doses of hallucinogens.
Sarcasm and poetic license aside, the ease with which millions of untalented individuals, inspired by the bright lights and fame ascribed to designers/artists in the media and through shows like "Project Runway", can apply to university and get a degree is quite infuriating and detrimental to the industry. A lot of these kids dive into university courses in design, with dreams of being the next big thing. A lot of them have realistic interests, but few are motivated by little beyond fame. Fewer still are aware of the various non-technical skills required to succeed as a designer. I do not mean to say universities are useless as a medium, far from it. What I feel however is that the general acceptance of university degrees as a measure of talent and ability in all things artistic is incredibly one-sided, blind and elitist, creating a closed society only accessible to those granted access (through a degree at an elite school).
Some will be quick to suggest that degrees are indeed necessary as a standard of measurement in the industry, which I fully agree with. However, should the acceptance of such standards come at the expense of talented, self taught individuals who were unable or chose not to attend fashion/design schools? The answer is an emphatic NO, said with blaring trumpets and a full circus parade (elephants, fireworks and acrobatic monkeys included). This however is the case, with talented young individuals being overlooked simply because they lack the industry accepted qualification aka a degree in fashion/design/art. It seems the fashion world has been quick to relegate to history, the fact that most of its famous designers did not graduate from any fashion/design schools. The assurance of standards provided by this accepted measurement of talent is exactly what is turning the design world stale. The world of design needs the raw talent and unconfined imagination of the self taught minority. Except for a few, most design schools strip students of individual styles, imposing a collective identity and method of "doing things". Thus in order to stand out, many turn to the outrageous and downright ridiculous, with design shows looking increasingly like fantasy circus acts in dreamlands born of near toxic doses of hallucinogens.
Using fashion schools as a measure of
talent also raises another issue: the “Members Only” club. Even amongst fashion
schools, there is an unmentioned hierarchy. Not only do young talented designers
have to go through fashion school, but they have to go to the right school in
order to get the kind of recognition their talents warrant. A short list of schools seem to hold a
certain level of prestige over all others, making it close to impossible for a
designer from a “lesser” school to have a chance at a high profile design job.
Fashion bloggers and magazine editors also tend to ignore designers who do not
hail from these “elite” schools. I’ve always thought part of the job of
magazine editors/bloggers was to showcase undiscovered talent from across the
world, self taught or otherwise. Unfortunately however, that doesn’t seem to be
the case. More often than not we get the same schools and designers being
profiled over and over again by multiple magazines. If it’s that hard for
students from lesser schools, it would require the powers of Aladdin’s magic
lamp and a dash of fairy dust for a self taught designer to make it into that
circle.
“…young designers’ creation has
become like stylists’ creation. I don’t feel envy.…It’s lack of the power of
creativity, because they graduate from design university, fashion university,
art university. They get nourished about very academic creativity, but they
don’t have creativity from here [gestures to his heart]…soulful.”
Those are the words of Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto and they
summarize exactly the problems with design schools. You can teach skill, you
can’t teach genuine creativity. It is in the heart and soul of the individual,
born from their life experiences. You can teach an individual the skills needed
to utilize their talents and maximize their creativity, but you can’t teach
them to be creative. They either are, or they aren’t. In my opinion, talent should be recognized regardless of
whether or not an individual graduated from the finest ateliers in Paris, or
simply sketched his work on paper while working the night shift at a 24hr
grocery store. Not all creative people can afford or have the opportunity to go
to design schools. They shouldn’t be shut out for that.